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Last Sync: 2025-10-10 11:13 (Mobile)

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Thaddeus Hughes
2025-10-10 11:13:28 -05:00
parent ecb3696872
commit 515f04a8b9
2 changed files with 14 additions and 25 deletions
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6
.obsidian/workspace-mobile.json vendored
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@@ -27,12 +27,12 @@
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"file": "stockcropper/Notes from assembly 13SEP2025.md", "file": "stockcropper/SC-PUNCHLIST.md",
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}, },
"icon": "lucide-file", "icon": "lucide-file",
"title": "Notes from assembly 13SEP2025" "title": "SC-PUNCHLIST"
} }
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@@ -167,8 +167,8 @@
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stockcropper/Notes from assembly 13SEP2025.md
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• • Jack nut pressed in really tight. Loosen this a bit if at all possible. It made the threads jam up. I re-tapped the threads after pressing it in. It didn’t press in all the way (about 1/16” didn’t go in) but the flange also wasn’t quite to spec so this is a good representation.
Jack nut pressed in really tight. Loosen this a bit if at all possible. It made the threads jam up. I re-tapped the threads after pressing it in. It didn’t press in all the way (about 1/16” didn’t go in) but the flange also wasn’t quite to spec so this is a good representation. • Everything went on the axle tighter than desired. Maybe this should be undersized.
• • The main axle is too long for the pins to latch over. I think it was fabricated wrong… double check this. We just elongated the clips on the pins for now.
Everything went on the axle tighter than desired. Maybe this should be undersized. • I sanded out the bores for the main axle bushings. This didn’t take long. This is probably the right thing to do - don’t even change the nominal hole size, just sand to a nice tight slip fit.
• • The main tube would go on easier if it just bottomed out against the bushing. Just do it. Or slot the sheetmetal. Do something so this is easy.
The main axle is too long for the pins to latch over. I think it was fabricated wrong… double check this. We just elongated the clips on the pins for now. • Maybe you should make the towbar telescope!
• • The drive motor purchased had M8 threads. It also didn’t need the spacers (spacing was perfect already!). It just needed the shaft cut down. Verify what you’re working with.
I sanded out the bores for the main axle bushings. This didn’t take long. This is probably the right thing to do - don’t even change the nominal hole size, just sand to a nice tight slip fit. • Need to chase / retap the M12x1 nuts after welding (and prior to painting).
• • You didn’t order or make the steering handle. Robbed part from THF. It’s not the right thickness though.
The main tube would go on easier if it just bottomed out against the bushing. Just do it. Or slot the sheetmetal. Do something so this is easy. • Enlarge the sheetmetal holes for the steering bronze bushings. Radial positioning of these bushings is irrelevant. No need to have press-fits on an obnoxious weldment.
• • The lift motor is sloppy. If you tighten it it's much better but still kinda sloppy. Remember this is tapped into a .09" thick wall tube... So tightening scares me a bit
Maybe you should make the towbar telescope!
•
The drive motor purchased had M8 threads. It also didn’t need the spacers (spacing was perfect already!). It just needed the shaft cut down. Verify what you’re working with.
•
Need to chase / retap the M12x1 nuts after welding (and prior to painting).
•
You didn’t order or make the steering handle. Robbed part from THF. It’s not the right thickness though.
•
Enlarge the sheetmetal holes for the steering bronze bushings. Radial positioning of these bushings is irrelevant. No need to have press-fits on an obnoxious weldment.
•
the lift motor is sloppy. If you tighten it it's much better but still kinda sloppy. Remember this is tapped into a .09" thick wall tube... So tightening scares me a bit